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Author Topic: WMA groups using period garments?
Gwen
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posted 03-01-2007 09:56 AM     Profile for Gwen   Author's Homepage     Send New Private Message   Edit/Delete Post   Reply With Quote
Sorry if this is in the wrong catagory, but I'm enquiring as to whether any WMA group out there requires participants to use historically accurate garments, or if "historically accurate" has become secondary to modern safety concerns.

For example (and not to point fingers, it's simply a convenient reference), the AEMMA promotes the use of 'authentic attire' . To me, 'authentic attire' would look like this image from their website:

Looks to me like a fitted doublet with closed front and grand assiette armholes, hose, shoes and something on the head (hat or padded cap)

The AEMMA training page lists the following as necessities:

China flats, kung fu boots or Revival boots
black track pants/leggings
training T-shirt: AEMMA standard training shirt (compulsory)
leather fencing gloves/leather riding gloves with cuff fitted with hardened-leather, lacrosse gloves
gambeson
etc.

Are all WMA groups like this, or are there any WMA groups using garments pictured in the fechtbuchs?

I ask because I was considering offering sparring/practice garments modelled after images in the fechtbuchs, but wonder if anyone would be interested?

Gwen


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gaukler
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posted 03-01-2007 10:51 AM     Profile for gaukler   Author's Homepage     Send New Private Message   Edit/Delete Post   Reply With Quote
I'm interested, but in the late 14C equivalents. My group practices in turnshoes, and I often wear my prototype Charles-de-Bois. We also do living-history displays that include sword practice, where we require accurate clothing.
mark

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mark@medievalwares.com
http://www.medievalwares.com
medieval metalwork and authentic antiquities


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chef de chambre
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posted 03-01-2007 11:01 AM     Profile for chef de chambre   Author's Homepage     Send New Private Message   Edit/Delete Post   Reply With Quote
I know the HASG uses a combo. It depends on the venue. Sometimes they wear black jeans with the guild Tee-shirt as a group "uniform", but other times they put on varying degrees of historic clothings.
http://www.higginssword.org/guild/demo/index.html

Jenn


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chef de chambre
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posted 03-01-2007 11:02 AM     Profile for chef de chambre   Author's Homepage     Send New Private Message   Edit/Delete Post   Reply With Quote
I should add the WA only uses what was typically worn for armoured and civilian WMA portions of our display.
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Jeffrey Hull
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posted 03-01-2007 12:33 PM     Profile for Jeffrey Hull   Author's Homepage     Send New Private Message   Edit/Delete Post   Reply With Quote
Well, I can tell you what my association tends to do:

Local ARMA study groups usually have guys in red tee-shirts; black shorts, trews, or even baseball-knickers; and wrestling shoes (indoors) or soccer "boots"* (outdoors). But some guys do wear turn-shoes.

But sometimes a given local group may have guys who dress period -- e.g. say if they like the circa 1560-70 civilian longsword fencing of Meyer a lot, then maybe they tend to wear the knickers / hose and a blouse and/or doublet -- but always in the association-wide mandated red & black colouring. By contrast, I have yet to see any of my sword & buckler associates wear monk-robes like circa 1300 fight-book Walpurgis (aka I.33) shows to do, as such is frankly clumsy attire for fencing.

I think it a grand idea to practice period, really cool -- but for various reasons, it is just easier to simply say that tee-shirt and shorts are the minimum needed uniform, and consequently, that is what the guys tend to wear to practice.

Naturally, the harness-fencers in ARMA often do wear their full armour for practice at armoured fighting. But as the image you happened to select demonstrates, the men of yore would practice harnischfechten moves in their arming clothes -- their de facto "workout suits". So one's specialised endeavour does not necessarily preclude interest in such period clothes as illustrated for wearing at practice. It would be more price and the customs of the group.

*[The latter footwear is my admitted inauthentic preference, as I almost always practice outside, whatever the weather. I rationalise the cleats as sort of equivalent to hobnail-soled shoes. In any case, I do not need the hassle of constantly slipping and falling over varying terrain -- whether grass or bare ground -- because wearing the equivalent of dance-shoes may be deemed more authentic.]

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JLH

ARMA Fechter


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Scott
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posted 03-01-2007 10:22 PM     Profile for Scott   Author's Homepage     Send New Private Message   Edit/Delete Post   Reply With Quote
ARMA specifically seesm to disdain the wearing of medieval clothes.

SSG and CSG some do some don's some wear some medieval clothes.

I dunno bout AEMMA

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I have no sig line


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chef de chambre
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posted 03-02-2007 06:13 AM     Profile for chef de chambre   Author's Homepage     Send New Private Message   Edit/Delete Post   Reply With Quote
About 7 years ago, I was very active on some boards the WMA people were on, and they were actively hostile to the concept, although I strenuously argued (having worn reconstructions of medival clothing, and being actively engaged in WMA studies) that the different clothes and shoes significantly effect ones movement and make the passes with longsword much different than when wearing sneakers and jeans - and I've done both often.

I was in essence laughed off, and had some very nasty things said to me be some of the old ARMA blokes.

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Bob R.


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Gwen
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posted 03-02-2007 07:53 AM     Profile for Gwen   Author's Homepage     Send New Private Message   Edit/Delete Post   Reply With Quote
Actively hostile eh? Hmmm, interesting. I wonder why.

On further discussion, my mate at the ROM says he'll wear a proper 15th C. sparring outfit if I make it for him, so I think I will go ahead and do it. He says anything has to be better than the Museum Replicas stuff some of the other guys are wearing.

I'm interested in seeing how they would work from a purely mechanical perspective.

Gwen


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Woodcrafter
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posted 03-02-2007 08:39 AM     Profile for Woodcrafter   Author's Homepage     Send New Private Message   Edit/Delete Post   Reply With Quote
I would like to say that it does make a difference to practice in accurate medieval clothing and shoes.

I would like to see an unpadded 14thc coat with grand assiette armholes and a lace-up front.

I currently have a lace-up and padded 15thc coat grand assiette armholes that is far too warm and the padding is no defence.

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Woodcrafter
14th c. Woodworking


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Gwen
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posted 03-02-2007 11:57 AM     Profile for Gwen   Author's Homepage     Send New Private Message   Edit/Delete Post   Reply With Quote
I would like to see an unpadded 14thc coat with grand assiette armholes and a lace-up front.

I already offer an unpadded version.

If you want it laced instead of buttoned, just ask and we'd be happy to do that. We're making these up as ordered anyway, so swapping lacing for buttons is not a problem.

What I'm currently discussing with my friend is making a padded pourpoint to be worn over the sparring doublet as proof against chest thrusts. It would be shaped like the sleeveless vest seen in the above image.

Gwen


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Gwen
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posted 03-03-2007 03:08 PM     Profile for Gwen   Author's Homepage     Send New Private Message   Edit/Delete Post   Reply With Quote
What sort of gauntlets/gloves are you all using for sparring?

Gwen


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Jeffrey Hull
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posted 03-03-2007 03:43 PM     Profile for Jeffrey Hull   Author's Homepage     Send New Private Message   Edit/Delete Post   Reply With Quote
For sparring, the gautlets used vary among ARMA members, and again, it may be dependant upon the guys wealth. Just some cheap farmer-rancher leather gloves from hardware store are the minimum. Or some guys like to buy period gauntlets with long cuffs of course too, and especially for cut & thrust or rapier fencing. But then again, since it is wasters or blunts we are using, and especially in a substantial local group, then often it may be modern stuff with safety in mind -- JKD gloves, along with a cadre of street-hockey limb-guards, hockey helmet, etc. But some advanced guys may go without any protection for certain things they want to practice. Of course in the case of harness-fencing, then authetic steely gauntlets (mitten or articulated) are usually worn, or at least leather gautlets.

Okay, I would also like to add that I took the original question to mean we ought to comment upon our own groups. Perhaps we may do that.

Pursuant to that, to quote the ARMA website:

"ARMA formal uniforms (historical-style red blouses and black pants) are entirely optional."

Thus the historical clothing is optional, but it is worn often enough, and especially by a given study-group who may go to a Ren-faire to do day-long demonstration, and indeed, such may be worn by some individuals as common practice-wear, as per the habit of some of my fellows.

Good luck,

--------------------

JLH

ARMA Fechter


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Callum Forbes
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posted 03-04-2007 02:35 PM     Profile for Callum Forbes   Author's Homepage     Send New Private Message   Edit/Delete Post   Reply With Quote
I run a WMA group as part of the overall Order of the Boar jousting and living history group.

The WMA group attracts students from the wider community as well as from the local re-enactment community.

We run a simple 4 level grading system. For the first level, beginner, we are just teaching 1.33 with wooden wasters. There is no period garment requirement at this level other than to use either period or soft-flatsoled footwear.

If they wish to progress then a basic period soft costume becomes mandatory as does period armour. By the time they get to the third and fourth levels then they should have full period soft kit and harness.

Ideally I would like to have period soft costume and footwear mandatory at the beginner level but because half my students come from a non-reenactment background and who do not immediately see the importance of doing WMA in period kit, this is a reasonable compromise, I feel.

However if we are doing any form of public display then all participants must be in correct period costume.

Of the three WMA groups in New Zealand we are the only one with any period costume requirements.

[ 03-04-2007: Message edited by: Callum Forbes ]

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URL=http://www.jousting.co.nz

Facebook [URL=http://www.facebook.com/profile.php?id=1290562306]


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Woodcrafter
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posted 03-07-2007 05:52 PM     Profile for Woodcrafter   Author's Homepage     Send New Private Message   Edit/Delete Post   Reply With Quote
Most modern glove makers are not using the medieval pattern of sewing. (Strangely, Canadian Military dress gloves are using the medieval pattern.) This pattern is the thumb sticking through the folded edge and there is an added strip starting at the inside finger tip of the index finger, and running the sides of all the fingers to the inside tip of the little finger.

It is my impression, from looking at the Wisby finds, that armoured gloves are produced by riveting plates, laying upon the fingers. Unlike SCA fingers that are 'U' shaped so the metal touches the sword grip and leaves a space above the finger itself.

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Woodcrafter
14th c. Woodworking


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johann matzke
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posted 03-09-2007 09:53 AM     Profile for johann matzke     Send New Private Message   Edit/Delete Post   Reply With Quote
It is good to see that some of us in the HEMA community choose to train in authentic clothes. Personally when I am back in the states and able to start teaching, I plan to actively encourage using appropriate clothing and equipment, as I find it is part of the experience. For example I find training in hose is entirely different to training in jeans (not better or worse, simply different).
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Wolffhart
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posted 03-12-2007 02:18 PM     Profile for Wolffhart     Send New Private Message   Edit/Delete Post   Reply With Quote
Gwen, I belong to the New York Historical Fencing Association and I personally would be interested in such a training garment for presentations for the Liechtenauer system, as for not using them in WMA as a whole I can think of a few reasons why it could be frowned upon
1) People don't like to spend more then they think they have to, WMA is a pretty expensive hobby in it's own right, most people think that period clothing doesn't effect sword play (Which it does greatly, as I know from practicing, in a 15th century outfit made by you Gwen).
2) People in HWMA don't like the way period clothing looks, I've often heard jokes about my own kit, and jokes about tights and what not.
3) People in HWMA don't necessarily have any interested in the period of time they are learning to fight from, This one really gets me, as I've run in to it quite a few times in the HWMA community, Thinking HWMA would go hand in hand with 15th Century reenactment I've tried to start up conversations about the 15th century which of course is really the high time for the Liechtenauer system, and have people look at me like a nut, some people just like swordplay for the swords I guess. As for myself I don't practice in my period clothing as much as a should, but I practice mainly in a public park in Queens NY, and Liechtenauer practice draws enough attention as it is, I really don't want to draw anymore. Not to mention I don't want my beautiful period clothing you made to get all smelly.

[ 03-12-2008: Message edited by: Wolffhart ]

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"If you are scared willingly, no fencing should you learn”-Master Johannes Liechtenauer
Brian Hook-
New York Historical Fencing Assocation
http://newyorklongsword.com


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Jeffrey Hull
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posted 03-12-2007 08:58 PM     Profile for Jeffrey Hull   Author's Homepage     Send New Private Message   Edit/Delete Post   Reply With Quote
Personally speaking, I like accurate replica clothing almost as much as I like accurate replica weaponry.

I was only trying to provide an honest summary of the practices of the part of the historical fencing world wherewith I am most familiar, my own group.

Indeed -- if Gwen reckons it be feasible to go ahead and make such a line of clothing for training, then I hope it does well, and I would tell others about it.

--------------------

JLH

ARMA Fechter


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Gwen
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posted 03-12-2007 09:19 PM     Profile for Gwen   Author's Homepage     Send New Private Message   Edit/Delete Post   Reply With Quote
If nothing else I'm interested in pursuing it to see what I can learn about making it work from a technical POV. My friend is keen to have a 15th C sparring outfit and that reminds me someone at the RA in Leeds asked about one so may be I have 2 guinea pigs for this!

Gwen


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Wolffhart
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posted 03-12-2007 10:35 PM     Profile for Wolffhart     Send New Private Message   Edit/Delete Post   Reply With Quote
Gwen have you thought of doing the training outfits from Talhoffer's 1467 Fechtbuch over the one you shown from the 1459? I personaly think the pointed underarms/forearms would be more fuctional then the buttoned ones shown in the 1459.

Also I'd like to see the suits from judical duels but I'm not sure you would find a huge market for those.

[ 03-12-2007: Message edited by: Wolffhart ]

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"If you are scared willingly, no fencing should you learn”-Master Johannes Liechtenauer
Brian Hook-
New York Historical Fencing Assocation
http://newyorklongsword.com


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Gwen
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posted 03-12-2007 11:16 PM     Profile for Gwen   Author's Homepage     Send New Private Message   Edit/Delete Post   Reply With Quote
Define "more functional" please. What are your assumptions and expectations regarding fit when you say that?

As for the judicial duel outfits, all I can say is I'd probably make my fortune if I were to offer them in rubber.... (yikes, I don't think I'm ready for that!)

Gwen


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Wolffhart
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posted 03-13-2007 06:30 AM     Profile for Wolffhart     Send New Private Message   Edit/Delete Post   Reply With Quote
In my mind the pointed armpits would offer an easier transition into the upper guards Ochs and Vom Tag, When I'm wearing one of your mahoitred style doublets it gets a tight there (Though I've grown chest wise), and the forearms/wrists because there is a lot of flexing where as having stiches in either of these places might be subject to tear when praticing at higher speeds/force. As for the rubber judical suit, It might appeal to the SCA crowd

[ 03-13-2007: Message edited by: Wolffhart ]

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"If you are scared willingly, no fencing should you learn”-Master Johannes Liechtenauer
Brian Hook-
New York Historical Fencing Assocation
http://newyorklongsword.com


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Gwen
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posted 03-13-2007 07:59 AM     Profile for Gwen   Author's Homepage     Send New Private Message   Edit/Delete Post   Reply With Quote
The mahoitred doublet is a civilian garment and the fit is going to be different than a specialized garment for sparring. It would be like wearing a business suit to play tennis. Fit would be even more of an issue of you've gained a bit of weight and it is very tight. There is a fine line between close fit and tight!

Personally, I like the covered up 1459 version. I think all the exposed lacing of the 1467 would provide more opportunity for a sword to get caught on if the fit wasn't absolutely perfect.

Gwen


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Wolffhart
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posted 03-13-2007 09:05 AM     Profile for Wolffhart     Send New Private Message   Edit/Delete Post   Reply With Quote
I know it's a civilian garment, only using it cause it's the only period garment I own, I was planning on ordering a smooth shoulder doublet from you because I going to try to set up a Liechtenauer demo and The NYC medieval faire next year, but maybe in a custom size because my waist to chest ratio for your standard sizes(My chest size closer to your medium and my waist towards your small). But I might wait for you to intorduce this garment instead, would it be parti-colored like one on the plate? and would it just be a speical doublet, or would you also design speical hosen(personaly I wouldn't see the need for the hosen as your current ones are very manuverable).

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"If you are scared willingly, no fencing should you learn”-Master Johannes Liechtenauer
Brian Hook-
New York Historical Fencing Assocation
http://newyorklongsword.com


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Gwen
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posted 03-13-2007 03:48 PM     Profile for Gwen   Author's Homepage     Send New Private Message   Edit/Delete Post   Reply With Quote
The current plan is to try a doublet with a bit of extra padding over the point of the shoulder and elbow to pad against blows.

We're interpreting the different coloured body as a padded pourpoint type garment which could be worn to protect against body/rib blows.

I'll be looking for a streamlined hard plastic cup, and will recut the codpiece to accept the cup under the lining so it won't be seen at all.


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Jeffrey Hull
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posted 03-13-2007 06:18 PM     Profile for Jeffrey Hull   Author's Homepage     Send New Private Message   Edit/Delete Post   Reply With Quote
Yes, the shape of some of the Talhoffer wams suggests to me that the whole torso was somewhat padded.

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JLH

ARMA Fechter


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