I received recently what was to be a test arming doublet, but actually turned out to be a production , III revision model, due to no fault of Historic Enterprises, but to my being a difficult fit. On the plus side of my being a difficult fit (I'm sort of a barrel), this has allowed me to see and examine and wear (to a degree) the two previous test patterns, and in fact to see them on others , which gives me a notion regarding what sort of range of people the stock sizes of these garments will fit - I've seen the medium and the large, and finally, the Bob size.

When Gwen ran the notion past me in an electronic conversation some years back that she wanted to come up with an off the rack arming doublet that would work for a range of people, I thought to myself that she had lost her mind at last, and said to her something on the order of "But an arming doublet would have to be custom by it's nature to get the close fit required".

Well, she was right, and I was wrong, for the most part anyway (I fit into the 10-15% range the off the peg model doesn't fit), and I have seen the doublets fit a variety of people, and can testify myself that even I almost managed to fit into an off the peg model.

Onto the garment itself. All three models I have handled have been in the
red, brushed fabric option, although I have seen photos of the natural
fustian ones. The garment is well tailored to the pattern of 15th century
doublet commonly seen, and it is sturdily made of a layer of stout linen, an
in-between layer of a stiffer/slightly thicker material from the collar across the shoulders, where the top of cuirasse and pauldrons interact, and of course the external layer. The doublet is closed with points down the
front, with a very slight overlap, so as to have the close fit necessary for this sort of garment. The rear of the doublet has a slit up to the point of the natural waist, which laces shut - this is perhaps the key to allowing both a wider range of fit than might be otherwise, and to keeping the doublet snug to the body, which I cannot emphasize enough is essential to the garments correctly functioning, and to allow for the proper suspension of the leg harness with
doublets reconstructed to the theory of leg harness suspension from arming doublet proper. The doublet is also intelined with a canvas at the waist, for additional strength at this stress point.

The model I was given to test drive has, I believe, all the options available on the website, save for the actual attached voiders, including the cuisse matrix, the point holes for arm harness (as per Italian style arms) , and the point holes for the pauldrons. Let me say that I have had an arming doublet that does function, if not perfectly so for the past seven years, and I have given quite a bit of thought to how these garments would likely have worked, and researched as to how they are described in the few documents they are described in, as well as examining the relevant 15th century art - some perhaps more obscure then the casual looker for information might be aware of. I have marched, rode, 'fought', and done almost everything in my harness imaginable, so I have a clue regarding both functionality, and shortcomings in modern reconstructions. My previous garment had too much padding on the arms, a tab system for arms suspension that was less than perfect, and a leg suspension from one set of leather tabs (with multiple holes), which was not as flexible a suspension system as the current cuisse matrix.

The arming doublet is comfortable to wear, it breaths, and it fits closer
than my old one (which was pretty darned close fitting). The tab system of pointing my old arming doublet made the pauldrons and arms less secure than they might have been - the new system, passing points directly through eyelets in the doublet body, and importantly for the pauldrons and arms through the extra layer of stiffer cloth works superbly. I still don't have proper arming points, but even with the temporary cotton ones Gwen provided, I noticed almost no slippage of my pauldrons, and my rerebraces and arms were more secure, and functioned better than they ever have in the past(they function exactly as they should off of me, and were only hindered by the tab system of my old doublet). The three sets of points for the top of the rerebrace is commonly seen in the sparse illustrations of these arming doublets (see the Siege of Jerusalem by Titus tapestry in the MET, as a for-instance), and is the best method I have used for arm suspension ever.

I think the most clever system in the doublet is the cuisse matrix, which allows for multiple points to secure the cuisse, and to spread the weight of
them out across the hips better than the old internal leather tab system my old arming doublet was provided with.

As far as I can see, the new Historic Enterprises off the peg arming doublet
does indeed meet it's intended purpose Gwen laid out for it - a good historical speculative reconstruction, using known historical methods for suspension of armour, where known, and the type of construction described in sources. It does it at a price that is affordable. Can you do one better? I am sure this is possible, if you have access to a skilled and meticulous seamstress with the necessary experience in meticulous historical reconstructions , and the money to lay out for such a project - in looking for a way to better my old arming doublet, I did some research into this avenue of approach. I am quite sure Gwen herself can make a custom arming doublet, to the most exacting specifications, given you are willing to pay her for the reconstruction. Can you get such a thing affordably, or can you get as good a reconstruction this is, for the type of price? This I have yet to see .

I think Gwen has brought to the reenactor/recreator/historical martial student the best currently available off the peg arming doublet, and at a price that does not even come close to a custom reconstruction like I myself would eventually like to have. Best yet, the arming doublet fills the role while passing the standards most groups I am aware of have for their clothing.

Things I would like to see improved - Well, I think the point holes could be slightly larger, it is a pain to get them to the point of passing a point through them sometimes, and I had a couple of point hole reinforcing stitches come loose, but the garment works as it, and superbly as it came to me out of the box, and these little niggling things just let me replace the hole stitching with my own hand stitching where necessary.

I like it very much, and more to the point, I was impressed enough with it that it meets my approval for Wolfe Argent, and several members are in process of ordering, or going to order one in the near future. I have also recommended it to those practicing armoured combat in the Higgins armory Swordsmanship Guild.

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Front view of the arming doublet as modeled by Will West of the Engyshe Plate Armourie:

Back view showing lacing which allows for a custom fit:

Now that we've sold a number of these and I can see what sort of eyelet configuration most people want and where, I've decided to include the cuisse, arm harness and pauldron eyelets as "standard equipment" in the price of the off the peg doublet. That's a $50 savings, as up till now these holes were a custom extra. Anyone who has a doublet on order will have the price adjusted.

Since I had my harness in the vehicle (well, half of it), I had a chance to try out the arming doublet riding. A mediocre or poor arming doublet causes no end of problem while tring to ride, interfering with what should be a natural and easy process. Please forgive my lightweight sweats and sneakers - I was dressed to shovel horse crap out of a paddock, not for reenactment or LH. I just slid the doublet over a t-shirt I was wearing when we realised "Hey, we can try out the arming doublet riding!", Since I had a friend present to put harness on me.

I was able to mount easily - I can mount Normandie from the ground out of harness, but the lowest hoops of my fauld interfere with how high I can lift my leg, if this were not the case, I would have been able to mount from the ground harnessed. Norm is 16.3 hh, and I am 5'8" with a 30" inseam - you horse people will know the sort of flexing and gyrations someone as short as me has to go through to mount a horse as tall as Norm from the ground.

In this image you can see I am able to ride easily - note, there is no slippage of the pauldrons or arms. Neck reining was as effortless as it should be.

In this picture you can see how secure my arms are with the doublet's system of triple points - my friend forgot to point one of the right arm points, and you can see it dangling free from under my pauldron. There was no slippage at all.

The last picture is just to show you one of the best pictures I have of my best animal pal, Normandie - alternatively called "Big Beauty" or "Stormin' Norman" by the ladies at the barn. I think he's the best horse in the world, but I am biased. He is as game for anything as any horse ever was, which is a reasonably rare trait for a herd critter. The only thing I would ever change about him is to wave a magic wand and make him a hand shorter.

The doublet made me not notice I was wearing armour, as nothing was annoying me or interfering with my riding. I got out of it faster than I would have liked (maybe 20 minutes), because it was in the mid 90's with the heat index, and high humidity - my wife said she could feel the heat radiate off of me as she took my cuirasse off.

The more I try the doublet, the more I like it. If that had been my old arming doublet, my pauldrons would have jammed when I mounted, grabbing the pommel and cantle of the saddle - they would have stuck in the cuirasse when I tried to lower my arms, due to slippage.

[ 08-08-2005: Message edited by: chef de chambre ]

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